Roam Guide / Park City, Utah

Gretchen Rubell is a Minnesota native who spent most of her 30’s living in Arizona and traveling across the West Coast and Hawaii for work. She moved to Park City, Utah a few years ago with her husband for the small town feel, to ski and raise a couple of little girls. Life is an adventure every day, and now Gretchen enjoys traveling mostly for leisure, using up the frequent flier points she’s earned over the last 10 years. On her travel bucket list is hiking the Havasupai Waterfalls, driving the coastline in Big Sur, and heli-skiing near Banff.


Where?

Park City, Utah

Park City has small town charm and yet the unpretentious sophistication of a big city. The mountain is easily accessible making it the quintessential ski town.

When to go?

While Park City is lovely during the off season, its main appeal has to be Winter when the slopes abound with fresh powder. Like most of the West (and East), we are still waiting for the big snow dumps this year, and see more brown with little snow in the forecast. Typically by Christmas, there is plenty of snow, and the resorts are fully open. Park City Mountain is open, and so is Deer Valley. Last year, we had over 400 inches of snow, which made for an amazing season (until we had an abrupt, unexpected early closure).

How to get there?

Fly into the new Salt Lake City Airport, on a direct flight daily. Check out Skyscanner for the best prices. Hop in an Uber for around $50, or schedule a pre-arranged ride with the reliable and professional, Four Seasons Concierge Transportation for the 30 minute drive up the mountain and into Park City. Car rentals are easy to access from the airport, but be sure to book 4-wheel drive or secure chains, as there is a new law that requires either to access Parleys Canyon on I-80. Once you arrive in town, there are plenty of free buses that can take you around the city, download the MyStop app to track the free bus. Keep in mind the city has less buses running and no trolley due to COVID.

Where should we stay?

Rentals,

There are plenty of Vrbo type options. This allows you to stay close to the mountain, soak in a private hot tub, and cook your own meals. I would probably recommend something in town right in the heart of the action. This Condo at MotherLode is ski In- ski out, walkable to everything up and down main street Park City. Plus it’s right next to the High West Distillery. Or this private, guest suite just a quick drive or free bus ride away to the Park City Base Area, Deer Valley, and historic Main Street. Get your groceries delivered from the Grocery Girls, or order ahead on the Walmart or Smiths app to pick-up when you drive into town.

Hotels,

If you are looking for a quaint and historic option you must check out one of the handful of rooms at the historic Washington School House also near “main.” If you are opting for a luxury ski in- ski out option, the Montage Deer Valley sits on top of Empire Pass, and provides a year round pool, full service spa and a variety of restaurants. Equally luxurious and wonderful is the Stein Eriksen Lodge and Spa in Deer Valley, Utah’s only Forbes Five-Star hotel and spa. Not to overwhelm you (and it’s not cheap) but, if you are NOT a skier, The Lodge at Blue Sky can accommodate alternative activities like horseback riding, ice-skating, movie night and spa days.

Rtip: Another option to consider is the centrally located Hotel Park City, Autograph Collection through Marriott — perhaps this is an opportunity to offset the vacation costs with hotel points as Hotel Park City comes highly recommended by R&R contributors.

What should we do?

If you are in town in the winter, chances are you’re there for Park City Mountain Resort, the largest ski and snowboard resort in the U.S. There are over 7,000 acres, bases at both Park City and the Canyons, and terrain for every level. Deer Valley Resort has equally great trails and offers a five star skiing experience. Park City Mountain Resort is requiring reservations for all guests (except those under age 4 only using the magic carpet).  It is best to purchase an Epic pass to ensure you get the days you would like.  Pass holders can logon to epicpass.com and select days for the upcoming week on Wednesday.  When you leave the resort (particularly if you only ski a few hours in the morning), cancel your reservation for the day so your spot can open for someone else.  Masks are required while at the resort, and lifts will be distanced (single on each side), or just ride with the people you are with.  Group lessons are not available for kids younger than 7.  This is because instructors will not be able to assist with bathroom breaks, getting on lifts, etc.  You may put your child younger than 7 in a private lesson, but know you will be responsible to ride the lift with them and assist when needed to maintain distance. 

Safety protocols, including masking and lesson limitations are also in effect at Deer Valley.  Deer Valley does not currently require reservations, but they also do not allow any same day lift ticket sales (all lift tickets must be purchased in advance online).  Deer Valley restaurants at the lodges are also requiring advanced reservations, so plan ahead for lunch breaks! Also keep in mind that the day care centers at both resorts are not operating this winter, and there are no “drop in” day care options in town that are currently open. 

The White Pine Nordic Center is Park City’s only groomed Nordic ski track with over 20K of classic and skate ski terrain right in town. Get your rental or a lesson right at the Nordic center.

Rtip: Make life easy by ordering ahead! Not only can you order your groceries ahead, but you can also have your skis delivered by Ski Butlers or Skis on the Run.

Utah hosted the winter Olympics in 2002, and is hoping for the opportunity again in 2030. Utah Olympic Park has an amazing free museum, as well as the opportunity to try out bobsledding, speed skating and zip lining if you are brave! Woodward Park City opened in the past year. It is a year round action sports destination offering concrete park, pump track, spring floor, Olympic grade trampolines, foam pits, outdoor tubing, skiing and boarding, and half-pipe. Plan to reserve tickets well in advance online.

If you are looking for something both unique and adventurous, call Luna Lobos dogsledding where you can learn about the world of dog sledding and hop on a sled for a private winter ride. To unwind after a few days of skiing, Park City Yoga Adventures offers stand up paddleboard yoga at the Homestead Crater, which is a warm natural spring in nearby Midway. While in Midway, put on your walking boots and visit the Ice Castles if you have time.

Sundance Film Festival will look a bit different this January. The festival continues to adapt, and this year is “distancing” films, offering an online platform of 7 days of films and programing, as well as showing films at independent cinemas across the US. Visit their website for updated information.

Where should we eat?

If you are searching for a little sustenance before hitting the slopes I recommend The Bridge Café, which is literally on the Bridge where the Town Lift is.  You can grab a breakfast burrito and head up the mountain in minutes!  They have a super cute patio for summer (or warm winter) afternoons.  If you’re driving in from Salt Lake City, stop at Vessel for some healthy breakfast options, including a hearty avocado toast with sea salt and lime. Hearth & Hill opened in the last year in Kimball Junction, and offers offers convenient, delicious, and generous servings that you can get via grab and go.

Main Street offers a variety of unique and trendy restaurants, including Handle, Fletchers, and Firewood —and reservations are recommended at all of them. At Handle, I recommend going it “family style,” start with the apple bacon biscuits, Kung Pao cauliflower and don’t miss the fried chicken (it’s a signature dish).

If you are looking to grab a slice of pizza, try Versante. Don’t let their location in a hotel fool you – it is some of the best pizza in town. They also have pasta and other options if you aren’t in the mood for pizza. I recommend trying the Spiro or the Parkite. If you are looking for something more unique, try Este.  I like the white pizza (olive oil, garlic, oregano) but the Ol’Vortman is also popular, which is pretty much everything you’d ever want on a pizza.

For something really low-key, I suggest you walk, or take the free trolley, to grab a bite at Riverhorse Provisions. There is outdoor seating; it is casual, affordable, family friendly and delicious! If you are here for breakfast, go with the with strawberry fritters or polenta French toast.  For lunch, I recommend the wild game meatballs or a ‘provisions bowl’ if you’re looking for something healthy. They also opened another gourmet grocery called the Salt Box Eatery in the Prospector neighborhood, that offers great grab and go options.

“Mexican?  I moved from AZ!  There is no good Mexican in Utah (or Minnesota) but, if you must, El Chubasco is good.”

Off Main Street, I suggest you head up the mountain to try out a warm Swiss cheese raclette, the meat and soup selection, and the dessert buffet at Deer Valley Fireside Dining at Empire Lodge. And for a real experience, book dinner in the Viking Yurt at the Park City Mountain Resort, only accessible by sleigh ride up the mountain.  For something quick and affordable, try Sammy’s Bistro Express in Kimball Junction.  I recommend the gyro or any of the salads. 

For a COVID-friendly option that is new and cool, check out the AlpenGlobe at Butchers Chop House off Main Street.  An AlpenGlobe is like a heated gondola carriage that offers 360 views for 6 guests to dine under the stars with views of the slopes, all while being distanced and warm. 

On the other hand if you are exhausted after a long day of skiing, and prefer to stay in, hire a private chef. I recommend Chef Matt Fischer with Omakase Catering, who will prepare a variety of sushi and Asian inspired options to your liking. Or new to park City is Door Dash, if you prefer to order from a local restaurant.

What should we grab a drink?

You can ski right into town to the High West Distillery. High West is at a base of the slopes, so you can easily stop for a burger or a Dead Man’s Boots (my drink of choice) and take the lift right back up. I love ordering a round of appetizers, including house made pretzel and fondue with fingerling potatoes and apples. The whiskey onion soup is yummy as well. If you’re not on skis, pick up a bottle of High West Whiskey to take home. Several of their whiskeys are sold only in Utah. The party goes all day at No Name Saloon in the middle of Main Street. They have a year-round heated rooftop patio that overlooks the mountain perfect for Apres Ski. For a local bar off Main Street, belly up to the bar at the Boneyard, and stay for a great live band. 

If you are looking for a little pick me up, roll through Silver King Coffee.  They moved their drive through location to the parking lot at The Market, right next to the State Liquor Store. 

Remember, You can only buy alcohol, including wine and craft beer at the state run liquor stores (grocery stores carry only beer, prior to this year it was 3.2 only, now they carry 5%). There are three such stores in Park City located at Kimball Junction, Snowcreek/The Market area, and one off-Main on Swede Alley. You can view pricing online. If you are staying in a rental, you may want to ask your property manager to purchase alcohol for your unit, but use your discretion on that one.

What should we shop and what should we bring back with us?

For sure you should grab a limited release bottle of High West Whiskey, only available at the retail store. For a sweet retreat head over to Ritual Chocolate and enjoy the drinking chocolate at the cafe and then head home with a few bars for yourself. If you are a parent, or looking for a gift, you should consider stopping by Cade & Co for handmade leather baby shoes from a local Parkite. There are so many cute options to pick from and they even offer custom made pairs. As of 2020, they are only offering them on-line, but be sure to check back. If you need a new outfit while in town, Mary Janes or Olive & Tweed boutiques offer trendy clothing and unique gifts. The Collective at Park City opened in the old art center off Main Street in the past year, and offers mountain inspired home goods, clothing, and accessories. 

“For stylish and buttery soft Park City souvenir t-shirts ( that you will actually wear) visit Motherlode, just off of lower Main Street.”

What should we pack for the trip?

Mountain Chic – Leave your heels at home! Ski coats are acceptable, even in the high end restaurants. For a dressy mountain look, I recommend a good pair of Sorel’s for comfort, style, and snow protection. Be sure to pack your favorite leggings, a couple cute sweaters and a great pom hat.

Tell us something we don't know?

Every night of the year, both the Montage and Waldorf Astoria offers fireside s’mores and you don’t have to be a guest at either resort to partake in the fun!

What is the one can't miss item on your itinerary?

Whether you are here for skiing or not, it’s wonderful just to stroll Main Street, dotted with historic buildings, art galleries, boutiques and amazing restaurants.


Roam Guides

A conversation with trusted travelers sharing personal recommendations from a well-loved trip.

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