Roam Guide / Door County, WI
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Where?
Door Country, WisconsinThis area of Wisconsin sits on a spectacular peninsula surrounded by the shores of Lake Michigan. There are calm waters sheltered by spectacular bluffs and giant pines. You’ll find a 93-foot sand dune, historic lighthouses, shipwrecks, abundant lavender fields and thousands of acres of tart cherry and apple orchards.
When to go?
Reminiscent of Cape Cod this artsy and quaint area comes alive in the summer with New England style fish boils, seasonal fruit picking and craft fairs. We visited in July to hit peak bloom in the lavender fields on Washington Island, and the ripe mid-summer cherry picking season in the orchards. There are a lot of outdoor activities, perfect for warm weather and I imagine the fall colors are are gorgeous along the water.
How to get there?
A five hour drive from Minneapolis (four from Chicago), it’s the perfect long weekend escape. With 34 named islands and dozens of little communities dotted along the 70 mile region that is Door County, you’ll want a car. We split up the road trip and stayed one night in Green Bay and then three nights in Ephraim, Wisconsin. Door County itself is only 45 minutes from Green Bay which is the closest airport for those traveling from further afield.
Where should we stay?
We were thrilled with our choice to stay in Ephraim as it seemed to be the center of Door County - close to several neighboring towns, only minutes from the water and totally walkable. Other options to consider would be Egg Harbor or Sister Bay, where you can walk to the water and rent kayaks and paddle boards right on the beach. Honestly most of these towns are only minutes from each other with a very similar buzzing of activity. Sturgeon Bay is another common choice, but for us it was a bit further from some of the things we had planned. I would not advise you to stay on Washington Island because it’s an area easily doable in a day, and the ferry back and forth is pretty busy on the weekends.
Rtip: An adults-only option, described as “rejuvenating perfection” by frequent visitor Amy Perl, would be, The Blacksmith Inn in Baileys Harbor.
We booked just three days before leaving so we lucked out that the Village Green Lodge had a last-minute opening. COVID didn’t seem to slow tourism in Door County and many places were priced higher than usual, so we felt fortunate to find a middle price point on a secluded street near the center of Ephraim. We booked the Woodland King Suite which was nothing fancy but boasted a cozy fireplace and a little balcony with a view of the forest. There was no daily cleaning and the pool was closed for the season, but we ran into the owners during our stay and they were delightful, taking such pride in their property. We would definitely stay there again.
Rtip: The Village Green Lodge is a motel style property that does not accommodate families. If you’re traveling with kids in tow or as a larger group it’s best to look at a property rental like this stunning family-sized airbnb, or this secluded airbnb near Fish Creek, recommended by contributor Morgann McCoy of A Well Worn Story. Plus if you are in a private rental you have an excuse to hit up the delicious fresh fish “to go” Bailey’s Harbor Fish Company.
What should we do?
I already mentioned that we went to Door County in July so that we could visit the lavender fields on Washington Island. That experience if you plan for it, is a whole days adventure so definitely give yourself extra time and bring your car. Some people rent bikes but I found that a lot of places we visited on the island were pretty spread out so I was happy to have a car. First of all, you must purchase tickets to take the ferry and it is $55 round trip for a vehicle and 2 people.
Once on the Island, we visited Fragrant Isle, one of the larger lavender farms. It’s five dollars per person to enter the expansive gardens, but if you shop in their retail first shop, a $20 purchase gets two in for free. There is also a bistro on site for lavender flavored drinks and cocktails, a U-pick station where you can select your own lavender, and a barn for distilling and harvesting demonstrations. Remember blooming season is early July to mid August.
While one of the main reasons I wanted to visit Washington Island was for lavender, but for Eric it was to join the Bitters Club at historic pub, Nelson’s Hall. To join the club, you (simply) take a full shot of their Angustora Bitters. It’s 100% novelty, but one five dollar shot gets you an official club card and your name in the the membership book. Eric partook in the action but I decided to sit that one out.
Rtip: If you’ve got kids in town the novelty of the ferry is quite cool, the kids can get their hands a wet in the spray and it doesn’t take too long to reach the island. Once on the island be sure to check out Schoolhouse Beach. It’s full of super uniform, lightly colored, smooth rocks, and totally different from Baileys Harbor beach which is quiet, sandy and quite shallow.
Since you’re on the Island for the day you’ll want to know where to eat. On the far northeast corner of the island you’ll find local favorite, Jackson Harbor Soup. It’s right on the water so you can sit on the patio and enjoy the harbor view of Rock Island (which is currently closed to the public). They have great pannini sandwiches, homemade soup, and a nice selection of local beer and wine. Eric and I had the chicken pesto panini and it was yummy, but people really love the beer cheese. Also worth mentioning, on your way in or out of Washington Island, you’ll see the bright yellow building that is, The Albatross. It’s a popular spot to grab burgers, Chicago style hot dogs and more importantly ice cream! I had to stop for their signature soft serve because they put eyeballs on your cone. It’s whimsical and fun, and they have a Tiki bar called the Alby’s Nest for the adult’s more interested in enjoying glass of wine or beer before the ferry back.
“By the end of your trip, if you haven’t figured out that Door County is all about cherries you must be doing something wrong.”
While I was researching our trip to Door County, Lautenbach’s Orchard kept coming up as a “must-stop.” There are several cherry orchards in Door County but we decided on this one and loved it. We ended up visiting on our way out of town and enjoyed the nicest weather. Lautenbach’s has a large shopping area filled with gifts and goodies to remember Door County, as well as a particularity nice selection of cherry goods. We ended up not only grabbing freshly picked cherries, but also cherry pie and cherry apple juice. On the opposite side of the store you can participate in a wine or cider tasting, which we did. They have full glasses available purchase or you can do a flight. We sat out on the patio, sipped and nibbled our cherries, and it was lovely. Be sure to save your pits because they have a funny “Cherry Pit Spit” where we had a good laugh and I ended up beating Eric by almost four feet.
Rtip: A second orchard option is contributor recommended Seaquist Orchards Farm, where you can start your day with donuts and pastries and also purchase phenomenal cherry jams, salsa and gifts.
*In addition to Lizanne’s highlights, Oregon Roam Guide contributor Morgann McCoy at A Well Worn Story suggests you look into; biking through the Europe Bay Woods State Natural Area where you’ll find the beach pictured above. Alternatively you can bike in Peninsula State Park, great if you have road bikes and want to make a couple stops along the way. Beyond biking, anyone with any skill level can walk along the rocky shores of Lake Michigan at Cave Point County Park, which is also a great area for kayaking and cliff jumping. For a little more intense hiking, head to Door Bluff County Park and hike the Deathdoor Bluff, at the far north end of the peninsula. It has that ‘ends of the earth’ feel and is really spectacular.
*Crafty, mom of three, Amy Perl makes two additional family-friendly suggestions to consider in Door County; The first is to busy yourself at Hands on Art, where are tons of unique opportunities to create… ceramics, canvas, wood, metal ware painting, fused glass, and stamped jewelry. Amy made a mosaic name plate and did all the glass cutting and placing herself, then selected the grout and arranged to have it shipped when complete. Amy also starts every visit to Door Country at The Farm in Sturgeon Bay and says the kids never tire of it. The main attraction is the farmyard where you can spend hours holding the kittens, feeding the baby goats, and admiring the piglets. After all the snuggling they enjoy a walking path in the woods which leads you to buildings focused on different aspects of farm living... bee keeping, maple syrup making, farming, etc. It’s lovely.
Where should we eat?
Let me first say I would suggest making reservations whenever possible just to avoid wait times, or worse, being turned away. After one long afternoon we struck out several times (even for take out) which was a huge bummer. In our experience most restaurants were pretty good about mandating masks and social distancing, although often we chose to eat outside or bring food back to our balcony anyway.
“Tables in Door County are likely to contain cherries, lake fish, meat, cheese and Scandinavian fare, so look for that and don’t hesitate to try something new.”
Our date night on arrival in Ephraim was a highlight of the weekend. We lingered at the quaint Pearl Wine Cottage only a couple of blocks from the water. It’s an easy walk to catch the sunset, but secluded enough to feel like a private escape. Keep in mind they only offer outdoor seating so it’s first come first serve, Wednesday to Saturday evenings, weather permitting. They have a wonderful variety of wines and delicious small plates. I ended up doing a rose flight and sharing a meat & cheese combo board with my boyfriend. The staff was personable and they gave us all kinds of local recommendations to use during the rest of our trip.
After the Pearl, we headed through a little alleyway to find the equally adorable Trixie’s. With a little bit more substantial menu, Trixie’s is open for inside and outside dining, again on a first come first serve basis. We ended up enjoying our time so much we ordered take out from Trixie’s our first night and then came again for drinks on our last night in Door County. The ambience is cozy and romantic, with floral soft pink and gold accents, dim lighting and warm candlelight. They also have a large selection of wine. The menu is shareable, which is always my preference. We tried the Cacio e Pepe, skirt steak, tempura whitefish, and the roasted pear ravioli — all phenomenal! Trixie’s has two sister restaurants; the Wickman House in Ellison Bay (delicious brisket) and Taco Cerveza in Fish Creek, where we’ve been told the brisket tacos hit the spot post bike ride in Peninsula State Park.
“We ended up ordering the Cacio e Pepe twice and ate it so fast there wasn’t even time for a photo op.”
Unsure whether this belongs in “what to eat” or “what to do,” but everyone I talked to recommended we catch a fish boil and I’m so glad we did. The Scandinavians are credited with bringing it to the county over a hundred years ago and the The Old Post Office (also known for breakfast) specializes in carrying on the tradition. We made reservations for the first seating on Saturday as there was potential for rain. We checked in about 30 minutes early and then headed out back to watch the action. The boil master, Jeremy has been doing it for years and has lived in Door County his whole life. The boil itself takes about 30 minutes. They start with the potatoes, then the onions, and for the last 7 minutes freshly caught Lake Michigan Whitefish. When the oils from the fish rise to the top, kerosene is added to the flames, creating the “boil over” and signaling the catch is ready to serve. Everyone then returns to their seats, where the staff brings your plate along with assorted homemade breads and freshly baked Door County Cherry Pie. It’s around $20 a person (not including alcohol) and was well worth the price of admission.
Rtip: If the Old Post Office is booked up or inconvenient then look to Rowleys Bay Resort, one of 8 other choices in the county, this one with a storyteller!
Another classic Door County thing to do is to have ice cream, and Wilson’s Restaurant and Ice Cream has been in the heart of Ephraim since 1906. Mostly known for their old fashioned soda fountain, their red and white striped awning and the peppermint petunias out front, they also have killer draft root beer and flame broiled burgers. We ended up going more than once for sandwiches, root beer floats, and those cheeseburgers. They are only accommodating parties of two at a time, but they have a great numbering system in place to help with social distancing.
Rtip: Speaking of “classic Door County” you might want to hit Al Johnson’s, a mainstay and landmark in the area. Not necessarily for the Swedish comfort food but for the vast outdoor space they call Stabbur’s where you can enjoy a killer blueberry Mojito.
Okay lets talk breakfast, One of the top recommendations I got ahead of my trip was for Good Eggs, and boy do I know why! It’s like a hip West Coast breakfast cabana dropped right in the middle of Wisconsin’s Northwoods. I’ve heard the experience itself, watching them make your omelet wraps and smoothies is amazing, but because of COVID-19 the inside of the restaurant is closed and you’re only allowed to make online orders. Be sure to order ahead during peak hours because it can take up to 45 minutes to get your food. No big deal if you plan on hanging out by the water or visiting one of the cute shops in Ephraim while you wait. The ingredients are fresh and will fill you up until dinner.
Also great for breakfast on the east side of the Peninsula is Bearded Heart Coffee. They truly have one of the best latte’s I’ve ever tasted! It’s called the ‘Beautiful Burnt Goat’ and it has house made dark + salty caramel topped with espresso and goat’s milk. Definitely worth a try. For breakfast I got the avocado toast and Eric had the breakfast sandwich, both were delicious! You can order online ahead and zip up to the pick up window to save time.
Rtip: One final suggestion for dining in Door County is Chives in Baileys Harbor for top notch farm to table options.
What should we drink?
I’m always down to start my day with a latte, so if you’re like me, then head to Discourse to kick off your weekend. Only one party is allowed in at a time and masks are required, but you can also order online for pick up. They are known for their hand crafted drinks, and let me tell you, each of their concoctions is super unique. I highly recommend you pop inside to order and chat with the staff about making a personal suggestion. They are upbeat and passionate about what they do, and they can direct you to your perfect drink of choice. I of course went with my trusty maple latte and there was hint of salt in mine. I decided on the pear vanilla latte for Eric, both dynamite.
Another local and community favorite is Isely Coffee which you can find at the Ephraim Coffee Lab. Located along my favorite little street, the coffee shop is currently only accepting online orders. However, pop by around 4ish on the weekends and you’ll find a little beer garden in their backyard, serving local brew in a really chill, low-key atmosphere.
If craft beer is your thing check out the expansive beer garden at One Barrel Brewery in Egg Harbor. Plus Wild Tomato is onsite, and their Roman-style pizza comes highly recommended. To be honest there are several breweries and cideries, like Island Orchard Cider, in Door Country but we lost track of time to visit them all.
Rtip: local contributor Amy Perl, suggests a wine tasting at Harbor Ridge Winery. They have a gift shop full of chatchkies but the best part is that Wisconsin Cheese Masters is housed in the building next door.
Tell us something you might do differently?
Next time I probably wouldn't visit Washington Island, only because I've already done it. On busy weekends there is a quite a line to catch the ferry and we ended spending three hours of our day just waiting / riding the ferry. The island is cool and has some great offerings but once you go, you're good for awhile!
Where can we do a little shopping?
Discovered on my drive to grab breakfast at Good Eggs, Rusty Dusty is the coolest shop in Ephraim. A ton of vintage and vinyls, Eric had a ball in there. The owners were super nice and you can tell they have knack for finding one of kind, off beat treasures. Right next door to Rusty Dusty is the adorable Lightbox. I was able to meet the owner Lucy, who does all the screen printing in house. She creates prints, fabrics and t-shirts, alongside a curated selection of other goods – including plants!
Located right off the highway when you’re heading into Baileys Harbor you’ll see a pretty white sign that reads Chelsea’s Antiques. Make sure to stop because it’s the most charming little garden containing three separate shops. We spent most of our time inside the Blue Willow, where everything caught my eye. Also in Bailey’s Harbor and already on the top of my list, I knew had to visit Jackalope Milk after the gal at the Pearl wine cottage told me to stop in. Owner Sage offers items made by local artists and small, female driven companies. Each piece is unique and beautiful. You’ll find a range of bags for example that are handmade using textiles and Wisconsin tanned leather.
“Bring your man to Bison Bison! I was headed into another shop when I spotted it, and I immediately called Eric to get out of the car and come in.”
In Fish Creek, Bison Bison has a cool curation of wine, spirits, beer and cigars, as well as eclectic retail and vintage items. I ended up buying a funky cheese board, and Eric purchased a new wallet, and some Polaroid film. Definitely a different kind of shop for Door County, but we dug it. Also in Fish Creek, Sister Golden comes from a mother-daughter duo who originally started the business online out of San Francisco. The shop offers a thoughtful collection of one of kind home decor items sourced from creative artisans worldwide. Think statement rings from Israel and quilts from India.
Rtip: if you are in Fish Creek shopping and need a break, The Cookery is the perfect spot for a wine lunch.
What should we shop for to bring back with us?
Anything cherry flavored! We snagged cherry jam, cherry brats and cherry beer! Also check out the amazing Door County Creamery, a staple for all things creamy — known for their WI cheese, gelatos and goat milk soaps. We stopped on our way back from Washington Island so their kitchen was closed for the evening, but they do have a handful of small tables on the front patio if decide you sample your fares. We snagged the truffle chèvre and it was divine. They also sell goat cheese curds and goat jerky. If you have kiddos along, they offer farm tours several times monthly during peek season.
Rtip: Contributors’ say maple syrup And the hidden gem Jorn’s Sugar Bush in Egg Harbor is the place to find it! This quaint little spot is run by the nicest older couple whose family has been making maple syrup for over 150 years. They have a shop in the building behind their house where they also sell maple candy, honey, local jams, jellies, cake mix and ice cream toppings, but the syrup is the best!
What should we pack for the trip?
It really depends on season but I always dress in layers, and usually bring along my Urban Undercover Travel Wrap. It happened to rain overnight and most mornings while we were in Door County, so a light jacket or umbrella is a safe bet. You will be on the go most of the day so comfortable shoes and easy to move in pants. It's not a "dress to impress" destination but personal style is always appreciated.
Tell us something we don't know?
We went into the trip thinking we'd be comparing Door County to Northern Minnesota, as they are both Upper Midwest / Great Lakes destinations. But in reality, they are completely different. Door Country has more of a historic East Coast feel with it’s British-Victorian style homes and fresh catch. There is a distinct European vibe with the Swedish-influenced chapels and Viking-inspired decor as well. A nod of sorts to the people who originally settled in the area.
What is the one can't miss item on your itinerary?
For sure participating in a fish boil and visiting a cherry orchard. If you are going in the summer, the Lavender Fields are magical but they only bloom for a short time between mid July and mid August.
Rtip: Contributors say Newport State Park has a “dark park” for galaxy viewing is a “can’t miss.” Bring a red light flash light to guide the way.
